Building your very own multi-level 32-car train cart is neither a chore nor snap. This cart has top access to each of its four levels with each level storing 8 standard cars. The utility cart is a simpler project and utilizes the otherwise scrap material from the train cart project. My own versions shown in Figures A and B show a slightly smaller train and utility carts designed to fit under my workbench. The TC or train cart is 25W x 37-1/2L x 40H. The UC or utility cart is 17-1/4W x 25-1/4L x 31H.
The materials required are:
Bodies
(2) Sheets of 3/4 CDX Plywood,
(6) 2-1/2 Narrow Utility hinges
(6) 2 Narrow Utility Hinges
(4) Fixed Dual Wheel 4 Casters from Harbor Freight
(4) Swivel Dual Wheel 4 Casters from Harbor Freight
(1) Box 6d Finish Nails
(32) 3/4 #14 Sheet Metal Screws
Handles
(3) Pieces of 1/2 x 18 #40 PVC Pipe
(6) 1/2 PVC Slip-on Pipe Caps
(3) Low profile cabinet knobs
Car Buffers
(2) 8 Piece of Drywall Corner Bead
(1) Roll 3/4 W x 3/8 T Foam Weather Stripping
(16) Magnetic Cabinet Latches
Have your home improvement center pre cut the plywood sheets. This makes it a lot easier to handle and their saw system can rip the plywood more precise and safer than ripping it on a table saw.
Figure C depicts a sheet of plywood with the store cuts shown as red lines. First have the store rip the sheets lengthwise into 4 pieces 23-1/2 wide. While this may seems strange it provides us with 4 pieces of the same width. You will also need the two 3/4 x 3/4 x 8 strips left over from these cuts. Next have them cut 2 pieces 36 long from each of 23-1/2 x 8 pieces providing 8 pieces 23-1/2 x 36 and 4 pieces 23-1/2 x 23-3/4. We will utilize all or part of all of the pieces. The 8 pieces 36 long will be used for the train cart and the 4 23-3/4 pieces will be used for the utility cart. The remaining cuts are made at home on your or a friends table saw. All rip fence dimensions are between the face of the rip fence and the rip fence face of the saw blade teeth.
The first step at home is strictly ascetic, i.e. filling the voids and splits in the plywood and edges with Spackle, sanding, priming and painting. If you are going to paint your cart, do it now and touch it up when complete. It is much easier. Lets get started with the utility cart for two reasons. First, it is simpler and second, it is useful for the construction of the train cart.
Utility Cart Tray, Side & Leg Cuts: Select 3 of the 23-1/2 x 23-3/4 plywood panels. Figure D shows the cuts we will be making. By cutting the tray side and end panels in this manner we end up with our tray bases.
First set the rip fence to 2‑3/4 and cut (4) 23-3/4 long pieces from the blanks as shown. These are the lower tray sides. Reset the rip fence to 4‑3/4 and cut (4) 23-3/4 pieces. These are the upper tray sides. Reset the rip fence to 1‑1/2 and cut (4) 23-3/4 long pieces. These are part of the leg assemblies. Trim these leg parts to 21‑1/2 in length. Set aside these pieces for assembly.
Train Cart Base Support & Shelf Support Cuts: This step cuts pieces for both the train and utility carts. Cut in order from each of the 3/4 x 3/4 x 8 plywood strips in order the following train cart shelf support pieces (1) 26‑1/4, (1) 17‑1/4 and (1) 8‑1/4 piece. The lengths of these pieces are critical so measure carefully. Next cut (4) 21‑1/2 utility cart leg pieces from the remainder of the 3/4 x 3/4 strips. This provides a total of (2) 26‑1/4, (2) 17‑1/4, (2) 8‑1/4 pieces for the train cart s and (4) 21-1/2 utility cart. Tag the pieces for the appropriate cart and set them aside for assembly.
Handle, Base Rib and Temporary Support Cuts: This step also cuts pieces for both carts. Figure E shows these cuts.
Select one of the 23‑1/2 x 36 panels and set your rip fence to 7 and cut a strip 36 long. Re-set your rip fence to 2 and cut 2 strips 36 long. Set aside the remaining 12‑1/8 x 36 piece for use as a rip fence spacer and then a temporary support platform for the train cart assembly. Reset the rip fence to 5 and using it as a stop and your miter gauge cut 3 pieces, these will be the handle blanks. Reset your rip fence to 8‑1/4 and using it as a stop cut 2 pieces for temporary shelf supports. The 8‑1/4 dimension is the clear space between the shelves and these pieces are used to provide temporary shelf support during train cart assembly. Tag them and set them aside. The piece shown in yellow is scrap.
Set your miter gauge to 45Ί and starting 1 in along the base of the support ribs cut off the corners as shown. Then starting 1 in make a diagonal cut to the opposite edge of each of the (3) 5 x 7 pieces as shown. Next draw a line 1-1/2 in parallel to the long and diagonal side. Where these lines cross is the centerline of the handle hole. Using the cross point as a reference draw a line perpendicular to the top and 1-1/2 beyond the cross point toward the 45Ί point. Cut off and discard these triangular pieces. Then drill a 7/8 hole at the crossing point of the lines. You will need 6 of these supports. If you are pre-painting, this is a good time to paint the raw edges of the pieces you have cut.
Utility Cart Assembly:
Draw a nailing line 3/8 in and parallel to the long edge on all of the 2‑3/4 tray sides and 1‑1/2 leg pieces. Draw a centerline parallel to the long side of the 4‑3/4 tray sides. The lower tray has the 2‑3/4 high sides; the upper tray has the 4‑3/4 high sides.
1) The legs are laminated plywood in an ell shape with the plywood laminations parallel with each other. Align a 3/4 leg strip with the edge of the 1‑1/2 leg strip and glue and either clamp or nail these pieces together with 4d finish nails. Repeat this step for each leg.
2) Next, glue and nail the sidepieces to the tray bases along the 23‑3/4 length with 6d finish nails. The upper tray base is centered on the centerline of the 4‑3/4 sides. Because of saw tolerance and variations you will need to measure the assembled widths and trim the remaining end panels to a length for both the upper and lower trays. This measurement will be of approximately 17‑1/4. Glue and nail the ends in place with 6d finish nails. Glue and nail a leg in each corner of the lower tray with 4d finish nails; use (4) 4d nails per side per leg. Then glue and nail the upper tray to the legs with 4d finish nails using (4) 4d finish nails per side. Next, you will want to attach the handle supports to one end of the 4‑3/4 deep tray you may need to trim the points from the bottom of the handle supports. The handle supports are mounted 2 in from the sides. Glue and nail them into place. Press one of the PVC pipe caps on a length of PVC pipe; insert it thru the support holes; mark and trim the length of pipe so it protrudes about 3/4 beyond the handle support; press on the second cap. The casters are install so that the mounting holes are 1‑1/2 in from the bottom edges of the 2‑3/4 tray with the fixed casters mounted at the handle end. This provides the same steer ability as a shopping cart. Time to move on to the train cart.
Side panel cuts: The semi-triangular side panels are uses for structural stability and mounting the fixed or anchored portion of the drawbridge shelves. Figure F show the side panel cuts and how to set up the rip fence guide to make the long diagonal cuts.
Select one of the 23-1/2 x 36 inch panels and draw a lengthwise centerline. Align the marked centerline with the center of the blade and split this panel into (2) 11-11/16+/- x 36 panels. A slight difference in these panel widths is not significant. Next layout the diagonal cuts on the resulting 11-11/16 x 36 pieces as shown in Figure F. Then add a second guideline parallel to and about an inch from the cut line. Align the previously cut rip fence spacer with the guideline on one of the side panel blanks as shown and temporarily screw the two pieces together. The canted blue rectangle is the rip fence guide and crosses show the appropriate screw locations.
Set the rip fence so the rip fence guide is against the rip fence and center the blade is centered on the cut line then rip the piece into 2 semi-triangular pieces. Repeat this process for the second side panel blank. Set aside these pieces for future assembly.
Bumper post & tilt lever cuts: Figure G shows these cuts. Once the diagonal cuts on the sides have been made re-use the rip fence guide to make these pieces.
Set the rip fence to 1 and slice off 4 pieces 36. These pieces are the stock for the bumper posts. Then cut the 1 x 36 pieces into 2 pieces. There will be 64 of these blocks. Set them aside for assembly. Next cut a 9 long piece from the length of resulting 7‑5/8 x 9 piece for a tilt lever. The tilt lever allows you raise the front casters to cross obstacles such as hoses and steps by stepping down on it. Save the remains of this piece for use as a temporary support needed for the train cart assembly.
Car shelf cuts: The car shelf cuts are used to both provide grooves for the trucks and to trim the shelves for hinge installation. Select 4 of your 23-1/2 x 36 pieces for the base and shelf blanks and one of the 23-1/2 x 21-3/4 piece as a test piece. The remaining 23-1/2 x 37 pieces will be the ends. Figure H show the grooving cuts in blue.
First set your blade height to 3/16. Next set your rip fence to 2-1/2 to the blade centerline and slice a groove lengthwise on the same face of each edge of the 5 pieces. Then reset the rip fence to 4-1/8 to the blade centerline, 1-5/8 greater than the first groove. The 1-5/8 is the flange-to-flange centerline dimension (I already made that mistake). Using the test piece first slice a groove parallel to the first groove. Check the gauge with a pair of trucks. If all is well proceed to slice a new set of grooves parallel to the first set on all the shelf blanks, otherwise adjust the rip fence and repeat the test on the other edge of the test piece. Reset the rip fence to 8-1/8 to the blade centerline and cut a new set of grooves parallel to those already cut on each shelf blank and the test blank. Reset the rip fence to 9-3/4 to the blade centerline and using the test blank cut the next groove. Check the gauge with a pair of trucks. If all is well proceed to slice a final set of grooves parallel to the previous set on all of the shelf blanks,
The next step is to cut 3 of the shelves into 2 sections, an anchor portion and a lift portion. The anchor portion of the shelves will be attached to the anchor end of the cart. Each shelf has a different anchor length. Figure I show these cuts as well as the notches in the corners of two of the shelves. The bottom shelf has a 1‑1/2 x 7/8 notch and the middle shelf has a 3/4 x 7/8 notch. The base and top shelf are un-notched. These notches are to clear the stair-step shelf supports. Mark the hinged end of the shelves.
Set aside the anchor portion of the shelves. Trim a saw blades width from each non-hinge side of each swing-up portion. Do not trim the hinge edge. This will narrow the swing portion by 1/4, 1/8 per side and shorten the shelves by 1/8. These cuts are to provide swing-up clearance. The next task is to install the hinges. Figure J shows the typical hinge locations on the trimmed shelves in red. Home Depot paint stir sticks fit nicely in the grooves and re-aligns the two pieces that make up each shelf for hinge installation. The hinges are shown in red.
Magnetic car stop strip: The magnetic car stop strip is a thin metal strip that will be installed between the wheel grooves AKA track on the shelves and base. This strip is used to hold the adjustable magnetic car stops or bumpers in position preventing movement during transport. Cut each piece of corner beading into (4) 24 pieces with a pair of tin snips. Next trim a 3/4 wide strip from each side of the corner bead sections, yielding 16 strips that are approximately 3/4 wide x 24 long. Close is good enough for the lengths and widths of these strips. Lightly file the edges of these strips to de-burr them and set them aside for installation.
Pre-assembly Prep: Figure K shows the nailing and mounting centerlines as a dashed green line.
On the base panel grooved side label one end A and the other end B. Draw a line parallel with and 7 in from each 36 edge. Repeat these lines on the underside of the base panel. These are the support rib guidelines. On the underside of the base panel draw a line 1‑1/2 in from the edges shown and parallel to these lines with a second line 3‑1/4 in. Draw a line 8 in from the A end and a second parallel line 9‑3/4 in. These are the caster mounting lines.
On each end panel draw a line parallel with and 3/8 in from the bottom edge. Next on both faces and on both end panels draw 2 handle mounting centerlines. These lines are based on an 18 length of PVC pipe and are 6 long and 4 in from the side edges. Label one end panel A. Measure up from the same edge as the 3/8 line and draw 3 more lines with the first line located at 8-5/8 from the base, the second line at 17-5/8 from the base and the third line at 26-5/8 from the base.
On each side of each side panel draw a line parallel with and 3/8 in from the 9 and 36 edges. On two, mirror image panels measure up from the base edge and draw 3 more lines with the first line located at 8-5/8 from the base, the second line at 17-5/8 from the base and the third line at 26-5/8 from the base. These are the shelf nailing centerlines.
The assembly while convoluted is really straightforward. When nailing the pieces together leave about 1/2 of the nail head exposed until you check the assembly for breakout, square-ness, and alignment. If you have a problem it is much easier to correct. This is referred to as tacking throughout the text.
1) Glue and nail with 4d nails the 3/4 x 3/4 strips set aside for the train cart stair step shelf supports as shown in Figure L. Set these aside for future installation.
2) Cut the foam weather stripping tape into 1‑1/2+/- pieces. The bumper posts 64 of these pieces. I built a jig to hold the parts that make-up the movable car stops. This jig is a piece of the scrap plywood with 2 parallel 3/4 grooves that are 3/16 deep and spaced an inch apart with a stop block. Figure M shows this jig and a completed movable car stop. The bumper posts are 3/4 x 1 x 2 long. The foam tape and the magnetic latches are install on the 3/4 faces of the bumper post. Place a bumper post in each groove against the stop, place the magnetic latch with the magnet against the stop and glue and screw the latch to the posts. Make 16 of these assemblies. Align a piece of the foam tape with the top of a bumper post and affix it 3/4 face of the post. Install the foam tape on all bumper posts. The weather-stripping tape is self-adhesive.
3) Place the base panel, grooved side down on a flat surface and glue the support ribs on the drawn centerlines. Nail these strips with (1) 4d finish nail thru the angled face to tack it into place. Turn the base over and nail the support ribs into place with 6d finish nails.
4) On the B end of the base measure in 1/2 as the start point and nail a magnetic car stop strip between each set of grooves with 5/8 brads at about 6 on center. I use an ice pick to start the nails and since the strips will be slightly bowed you want to install it bowed side up. Repeat the magnetic car stop installation on each of the lift end portion of the shelves. At the swing-up end of each of the shelves drill a 3/16 hole centered between the 2nd and 3rd tracks and 1‑1/2 in from the edge. This hole is for the lift knob. Install the Knobs.
5) The first thing to remember at this point is to keep the nailing lines on they on the outside the cart and the A end panel and its side together as a group. The installation for the end panels is the most critical step because if the parts are not in perfect alignment the lift portion of the shelves will bind. First on each end panel start a 6d finish nail at 1, 5, 7, 9 and 11 from the side along the bottom nailing line. On each side panel start a 6d finish nail at 1 in and at 9 centers along the 36 long nailing line.
Apply glue to the edge of one end of the base. Clamp the scrap piece leftover from the tilt lever cut to the underside of the base panel so it protrudes about 1‑1/2 beyond the end of the base. This is to support the end panels and keep the sides square with the base. Place the appropriate A or B end panel on the support block; align one corner flush with the corner of the base and tack the two pieces together using only one of the pre-started nails 1 in from the side edge. This nail acts as a pivot point. Use a large framing square to square up the side edge of the end panel with the face of the base. The side edge of the end panel must be square with the face of the base or the swing-up portion of the shelves will bind.
I clamp the framing square to the end panel once the pieces are aligned so they will stay aligned. When square tack the second corner into place and check for square-ness between the sides of the end panel. At this point it does not matter if the end panel face leans toward or away from the face of the base. The side panels will pull or push it square. Tack the end to the base with the remaining pre-set nails; recheck to confirm the edges are square with the base and set the nails.
Flip the cart on to its side. Apply glue to the 36 side of the end panel and the portion of the base panel the side will overlap. Select the appropriate side panel for the location; align the top corner of the side panel with the top corner of the end panel with and nail the side panel to the end panel. Do not nail or tack the bottom edge of the side panel to the base at this time. Repeat this procedure and install the other side of the end panel you are working with. Next, flip the cart onto its base and square the face of the end panel with the base. When they are square, nail the sides to the base with (4) 6d nails per side. Repeat this procedure for the second end and side panels.
6) Glue the stair-step shelf supports into the corners of the B end so the steps face the A end. The anchor portion of the shelves will be attached to the A end panel.
7) Place a pair of the fixed bumper posts at the A end base approximately 1/8 outside the track grooves. Check the placement of this bumper post set with a car to confirm the car will rest against the foam face of the bumpers and the coupler will clear the A end panel. If all is well, glue 8 of these posts into place, 1 pair per track groove set. This bumper post installation is required for each of the shelves and easiest when installed as each shelf is installed.
8) Place the shelf support spacers at the A end of the base so they will span the hinges of the bottom shelf and clamp them to the sides. Rest the bottom shelf on the permanent and temporary shelf supports with the hinged or anchor against the A end of the cart. You may need to tap it into place so that it is tight against the against the anchor end. Check the alignment and swing of the shelf. If the shelf binds against one side then tap that side of the shelf rotating it into a non-binding position and check that it lifts freely. This may create a gap between the fixed end and the shelf base. This gap can be either ignored or filled with wood filler. First, nail the hinged or anchor end of the shelves to side panels with 4 6d finish nails on each side; then nail the hinged or anchor end of the shelf thru the end panel with 6d finish nails at 1, 5, 7, 9 and 11 from the side along the bottom shelf nailing line. Repeat this process for the middle and finally the top shelf.
9) Flip the cart on its top for the caster installation. Drill a 3/16 hole where the caster guidelines cross. There will be 16 holes. Screw the fixed casters to the A end of the cart and the swivel casters to the B. The set-in fixed casters act as a fulcrum point when you need to raise the front swivel casters to clear an obstacle. Glue and screw the tilt board to the underside of the A end with 3 extending beyond the cart. Turn the cart right side up and prime and paint the raw wood edges and touch up any damaged paint.
10) Move your rolling stock to your new cart for storage. I use an old sheet as a dust cover.